BWCA: Nature's Finest

I spent eighteen, almost nineteen, years of my life going to bed at night under the stars and waking up to peaceful quiet mornings and the sound of birds chirping.  However, in the last five years, I've found myself falling asleep to the sound of bar close stragglers and sirens, with the glow of street lamps, and waking up to the sound of the garbage truck rattling while emptying the dumpster.  I have grown accustomed to this lifestyle, and it seems like second nature to me.  That is, until I realize how peaceful it is to fall asleep to only the sounds of nature at work.  I'm very thankful I had that opportunity last weekend, with a one-night trip into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area & Wilderness.

We've been planning this trip for a few weeks, and I must admit I had a rude awakening when my Dad asked me if I was interested in joining them and my very first thought was "what if my cell phone dies?!"  I instantly felt spoiled and disgusted at how attached to technology I am.  So, I eagerly accepted my invitation to join my parents and my Aunt who would be visiting from Maryland.  I will admit I did bring my iPhone with me and it even had its own flotation device, but it was only used for taking photos.  I could hardly sleep on Friday, the excitement built as I anticipated an early Saturday morning.  I jumped right out of bed when my Dad knocked on the door at 6am, and I gathered all of my gear before having a nice breakfast of yogurt, granola and berries.  We finished loading up the truck and snapped a 'before' photo of our four smiling faces before hitting the road.  

The drive seemed to go by relatively quick, with only one stop at T. Pattenn's Cafe in Orr for their famous, monster donuts.  Before long, we were pulling into the Moose River landing parking lot and I must admit, I was thoroughly shocked by the number of cars.  In fact, I was slightly disappointed.  I had imagined my first experience in the BWCA would be complete seclusion, like we wouldn't even see any other people the whole time we were there.  My parents reminded me the BWCA is quite vast, and it's not like all of these people will be on the same lake....they were right. 

We unloaded the truck and immediately doused ourselves in bug spray before hoisting the packs, which really weren't as heavy as I had anticipated,  onto each other's backs.  My poor Dad, stuck with three ladies for the weekend, had to do the grunt work and carry both canoes as well as the heaviest pack.  As usual, he was trooper and did it all with a smile.  We hiked 160 rods, which thanks to the Internet, I learned was similar to 1/2 mile, before getting to the river and finally embarking on our journey. 

Team NJW, as we branded ourselves, took to the water first.  It was a bit of a rough time at first, but by the third portage we had figured out our rhythm and stayed out of the bushes, well for the most part!  Another thing I wasn't anticipating were the number of portages on the river - I had always assumed portages were only between the lakes and not necessarily on the rivers.  A few of them were new since my parents had last been up there, mostly caused by downed trees.  We passed a few folks who were coming out, on our way in, who either delighted us with polite chatter about the weather, bugs, etc. or flashed a snide smile along with sarcastic comments toward Auntie Norma and me.  Most of the time, we were probably far enough behind my parents, that we appeared to be travelling on our own, but I still found it quite unnecessary for the big macho men to treat us that way.  Oh well, I was very proud of us!

 

After a couple of hours, many winding turns and me repeatedly humming "Just Around the Riverbend" to myself, we finally reached the mouth of Moose River at the point where it meets Nina Moose Lake.  It was such a relief to know that we were on the last leg of our first day.  We immediately set our sights on a campsite directly across the lake and headed that direction.  We arrived and dragged the canoes to shore, hauled the packs up to the site and began to unload.  Dad went right to work organizing everything and getting the tent set up, while I sat there for a few minutes to take it all in.  It was absolutely perfect and serene.  We were the only people on the lake, situated on a point where the breeze kept the bugs at bay, with a beautiful view.

 

 After getting everything set up and resting for a bit, we decided to head across the lake to Lamb Portage in hopes of finding blueberries and maybe seeing some wildlife.  We only succeeded in one of our goals, but it was quite rewarding when we were able to have blueberry pancakes on Sunday morning!  Our hike of Lamb portage was quite primitive, it was obvious that wasn't the choice route to get to Lamb Lake and hadn't been used much.  The bugs were atrocious and sweat was dripping by the time we got back to the canoes, so all we could focus on was getting back and jumping in the lake.  Unfortunately, we got a little side-tracked when Dad suggested I take the back and practice steering.  He reminded me that "the shortest distance between two points is a straight line," and after a few words (in slightly raised voices), we realized that does not necessarily work so well when the person in front is heavier than the person in back!

 

Within a matter of minutes after returning to the campsite, we were all in our swimsuits and in the water. It was so incredibly refreshing!  It reminded me of Elbow Lake and swimming as a kid, in the root beer colored water with a mucky, muddy bottom.  After our swim, I changed into dry clothes and we started to get dinner ready.  We had fajitas, which we prepared the evening before, so we just had to warm them up.  It was quick and simple, and they were delicious.  We each found a log or rock to lean against and enjoyed our dinner as the sun began heading further west and the breeze died down bringing a sort of calm, coolness across the lake.  Dad cleaned everything up and hoisted the food pack into a tree while us ladies sat around and chatted.  As dusk drew near, the wilderness seemed to come to life.  We saw a total of three beavers swimming along their merry way, heard the familiar call of a loon as it flew over the water, and we even saw the peering eyes of a massive snapping turtle right where we had been swimming only a few hours earlier.  I spotted the turtle with its head peeking out just above the surface of the water and we all watched him as he stretched his long claws to take a step closer on the rocks while his neck elongated to get a better look at us.  He was a monster, and a late night skinny dip definitely wasn't happening after that sight!

 The sun hit the trees and quickly sank on the horizon bringing on the stars.  I sat by the fire for a bit, but my heavy eyes and the hungry mosquitoes sent me into the tent pretty early.  Plus, I wanted to be up in time to watch the sunrise, so I called it an early night.  I was proud of myself for falling asleep so easily and not staying awake scaring myself at every little sound, instead I focused on the crunch of pine beetles and fell right asleep.  I slept as well as one can while on the ground in a tent with snoring travel companions, but I am not complaining.  I awoke to the familiar sound of chickadees announcing a new day.  The chickadee always reminds me of our many trips to the Shack, it's one of those sounds that  will always take me back to Elbow Lake.  I was the first awake and I got Dad up to go watch the sunrise and it was well worth it.  It was so tranquil watching the sun climb into the sky as the mist lifted off the surface of the water.  It was so perfectly still and peaceful.  We captured some beautiful photos, and I must credit him on the one below - he's becoming quite the nature photographer!

 

He started the fire and got his coffee made, while I went back to bed.  It was still a little early to be awake on the weekend!  After a short little rest, I was ready for the day again.  We began cooking breakfast - blueberry pancakes, bacon and sausage, it was so yummy!  We also sang a little campfire song to wish our chef extraordinaire, my Dad, a happy birthday.  We did feel bad that he had to enjoy his breakfast last because we were devouring the hot cakes immediately after he took them after the griddle.  There is something so delicious about the primitive nature of food freshly cooked over a campfire.  I can't even explain it, but if you've never enjoyed this little pleasure, I suggest you add it your bucket list.

 

After breakfast, we began to pack everything up in preparation for our trip out.  We made a very efficient team and we were all set to go by 10am.  The trip across the lake was quite a bit rougher than the day before.  We were going against the wind, my shoulders were aching, and I was feeling slightly dehydrated.  I had a hard time drinking the 'bug juice' that Dad had for us.  Really, I'm sure it was just fine because the water was filtered but I preferred the taste of cold, Britt well water from home!  We finally made it to the mouth of the river once again and started the all so familiar trek with what seemed like never-ending turns.  We hit a few more obstacles, apparently there had been some busy beavers the night before (ah, so punny!) who were attempting to complete their dam.  Thanks to our courageous leader and his strength, Team NJW and my Mom never had to get out of our canoe for these small obstacles, because he just pulled us right over!

 

It seemed to pass much faster this time, perhaps because Auntie Norma and I had really nailed down our rhythm or because we had already seen the scenery once.  Either way, I was happy that it was going smoothly because I was anxious to be home.  We finally reached the first portage, and I really felt a sense of accomplishment.  There was, what appeared to be a city boy scout troop, who were obviously struggling with the portage.  And, when one of the young campers (with his massive mosquito net hat) exclaimed "oh my gosh, is that snow?!"  I really felt like a strong woman.  We believe he was confused by the foam at the bottom of the small rapids, but it still made me feel good that I hadn't lost touch with nature that much in my last few years as a city girl.

 

We even skipped a couple of the last portages, when Dad realized it was more efficient to navigate the rocks and get out to drag the canoe across downed trees, it saved us quite a bit of time.  And before long, we were back at the start.  Norma and I had arrived back at the portage first and we hopped out of the canoe and immediately gave each other a high five - we did it!  We then walked a ways up the trail to snap some photos of the rapids before starting our trek back to the truck.

 

This was probably the toughest part of the whole trip.  That last 160 rods seemed to take forever.  And I am so grateful for my Dad, and his strength.  He was such a trooper, taking one load and turning right back around to get the second canoe.  Working in the city, I don't see that every day and I forget how much of a valuable asset that is.  Plus, my Mom was a great motivator and went to meet him halfway back down the trail.  We guzzled the ice cold water, which we had saved in a cooler in the truck.  It's never tasted so good as it did in that moment!  Shortly after, it was back in the truck and on the road home.  We did take one pit stop, at the Dam for ice cream cones to celebrate Dad's birthday.  Once we got back home, I took a quick shower before collapsing on the couch.  I was exhausted, but in a good way.  So, despite it being a very short trip, it was the perfect start for me (and team NJW) and I am definitely looking forward to doing it again!

Up North: 4th of July in the Sticks

It's hard to believe its come and gone, the weekend I've anticipated since it ended last summer, has already come to an end.  Now, it's back to the daily grind - 72 unread emails requiring immediate attention, the seemingly nonstop clicking of keyboards, and the distant beeps from the copier keep me concentrated on the tasks at hand.  That is, until I pause for just a moment, glance at my ankles speckled with mosquito bites, close my eyes and instantly feel like I'm still bouncing around in the boat getting tossed by the waves.  It's a very distinct feeling, like no other, serving as a reminder of a weekend well spent with family and friends.

Last week, as I sped down the freeway with the Minneapolis skyline in my rear view mirror, I made it up North in record time.  I rolled into Virginia just in time to grab a cherry slicker from the Freeze and stop to spend a few minutes with my grandpa, before pulling into mom & dad's driveway and finally feeling the relief of being home.  I spent Wednesday evening barefoot in the backyard on the badminton court with one of my best friends.  Just like in high school, we volleyed the birdie back and forth while exchanging the latest scoop.  I called it an early night, so I could rest up for the remaining weekend activities, I think I was asleep before my head even hit the pillow. 

 On Thursday morning, I woke up to my alarm clock while at home, my dad, and started packing up the car to head even further North than usual to Pelican Lake in Orr.  My heart was thumping with excitement as I drove around the curves and down the dirt road into Richardson's Shangri-La Resort to meet Mitch and his family.  Ironically, they have been vacationing 40 minutes from my house for the last 20 years!  The first thing I heard when I got out of my car was the distinct slam of an old screen door, and I knew I was finally at the lake. We spent a few minutes lounging on the dock before getting into the boat and going out in hopes of catching dinner.

 

Mitch promised me that I would catch something, and he delivered on his promise.  I was very successful, catching a couple 15.5" smallmouth and largemouth bass, which were both protected in the slot limit.  I may not have been able to take the hooks out myself, but they did make me hold the fish all by myself to pose for photos!  I also caught a couple more fish that we saved for dinner later that evening.  After a successful morning fishing the reef, we headed back in for lunch and an afternoon on the dock and swimming.  It was a bit chilly jumping in, but oh so refreshing!   

After our swim, it was time to get ready for dinner.  But first, I got a lesson in filleting fish.  I watched as Mitch did one, but my attention span was short-lived as I breathed through my mouth to avoid to stinky scent of fish guts.  Our fresh-caught dinner was delicious, and I'm glad I was able to contribute.  Afterwards, we walked down to the dock to watch the sunset.  There are no words to even describe the joy I felt sitting there on the water's edge in the adirondack chairs as the sun sank below the pine trees on the distant shore.  I had been waiting for that moment for a very, very long time.

Later that evening, we went into Orr for the fireworks and street dance.  Being a iron ranger at heart, although I never claim it, I've been to a street dance or two, and it was entertaining to watch it all unfold.  On Friday morning, we canoed out to and around a couple of the islands on Pelican.  It started out as a pleasant paddle, but once we got out of the protected bay, it began to get a little choppy.  I was getting nervous, but Mitch assured me everything was just fine.  It actually turned out to be a perfect practice session for my upcoming one night trip to the Boundary Waters. 

Once we got back to shore and I realized how sore my shoulders were, we opted to spend some time inside playing board games.  We switched off between backgammon, which I learned to play the night before, and cribbage until I couldn't handle to lose any more.  Well, I must admit I did skunk him a couple of games, but overall he takes the cake.  Outside, the clouds darkened and storms began to roll in, so we hurried to get ready and snap a few photos before heading to the Dam Supper Club for dinner.  Oddly enough, in all my years spent up North, I had never been to the Dam, so it was a delightful first for me!

Later that evening, we left Pelican Lake and headed a bit south to Lake Vermilion, where we met my parents to watch the 4th of July fireworks.  The fireworks were at Polley's Resort, not your typical resort I'd recommend vacationing at, if any of you have seen or heard of the place, but I must admit they do know how to put on a show.  It's become one of my favorite traditions of the weekend, and this year was especially spectacular.  The weather can be credited for that, as the storms were rolling in and the show sped up, we were delighted to an intense fireworks display while lightning striked in the distance.  Thankfully, the raindrops didn't start hitting the water until the finale. 

We went to bed on Friday night hoping for Saturday's forecast to clear up.  To my surprise, I woke up to dad knocking on the door and exclaiming the sun was shining and the radar was clear.  I rolled out of bed and saw he already had the boat almost loaded up in the driveway.  I kicked it into high gear and we were on the road within the hour.  We put the boat in at Peterson's landing and it fired right up.  The ride towards our destination was a bit rough, very choppy and by the time we reached "our island" we were drenched.  Now, it's only a public picnic site, but we've come to deem it as ours since it's been the site of many Walker family afternoons on the lake. 

We dropped off the coolers to lighten our load before doing a little morning fishing.  Much to my surprise, and don't take offense to this, dad was a wonderful guide!  Mom and Ally will understand that statement, but for all of you, it stems from our younger years at the Shack on Elbow Lake.  Anyway, minus one minor mishap of running into a underwater rock pile, we were quite successful.  I caught a couple of keepers and Mitch caught a 20" smallmouth bass!  Unfortunately neither of us caught "Wally" but I am glad we both had great success!  Plus, we had some cool nature sightings like eagles, loons and two deer swimming.

After fishing, it was back to the island to start preparing lunch.  Dad left us in charge to keep the fire burning while he went back to shore to pick up Mom, who had been working in the morning.  We savored delicious venison steak strips and fresh caught bass, both cooked over the open flame, alongside potato salad, watermelon and chips with salsa.  Primitive, yet delectable.  After a quick dip in the lake, well for me and dad at least, we dried off by the campfire while roasting marshmallows and making s'mores.  I added some fresh strawberries to my s'more for a sweet twist - yum!  We ended our evening on the lake with a boat ride to Moosebirds for ice cream, an absolute must-do in my book!

Sunday came all too quickly, but we didn't let it get us down.  We went to church in the morning and I really enjoyed getting to hear my dad sing.  The day continued with a stop at the Vermilion Club for lunch.  Although there were only four of us, we still decided to order the Bamboozler, a famed 24" pizza, to share.  It's a classic at the VC, and I definitely recommend it.  I am positive we could have finished the monster between the four of us, but I like leftovers and none of us wanted to be too full for mini golfing.  I had already mentioned I was excited to mini golf at Pier 77 in a prior post, following a slightly disappointing round at MaltTees in Richfield, and it did not let me down.  We had tons of fun, even with the massive downpour that sent us running inside from the 14th hole for a few minutes!

I highly recommend Pier 77 for a fun afternoon activity to anyone that is visiting the Lake Vermilion area.  With hole names like Soudan Mine, Giant's Ridge and the Laurentian Divide, it's a highly unique and creative course highlighting the area's attractions.  My favorite hole was Split Rock Lighthouse because it has a striking similarity to a History Day project of mine from almost 10 years ago.  The course is very well-kept too.  We had an absolute blast, in fact, by the end my mom was already saying how excited she was to go again. 

After mini golf, we made a few stops to visit both grandpas and check out my dad's garden on the farm before heading South.  Before long, the Minneapolis skyline was back in sight and the weekend officially drew to an end.  It wasn't a typical Sunday evening though, instead of laying awake and restless anticipating the week to come like normal, I fell calmly asleep with a smile on my face after the perfect weekend.